Friday, July 24, 2015

Periwinkles and Memories

 I caught a small thread of discussion about eating something I hadn't thought of in years, a conch, or as I knew them, periwinkles. These periwinkles would be dredged up along with the scallops and on occasion retained for eating. Most of the the time however we just threw them back. Doing a little research on the internet before writing this I discovered that conch is probably the correct term for what I was eating. Periwinkles are not native to the eastern coast of the United States but were introduced there by accident. Sometime during the 18th century they were brought here probably on the bottom of a sailing ship. So they were illegal immigrants ! They have prospered well.
 I can remember Mom cooking those periwinkles, a name I will always call them, and the smell that they gave off. It wasn't a pleasant one I can tell you that. They sat and boiled on the back of the stove for at least three hours or more. The house would be filled with that aroma. I've heard of aromatherapy but that aroma wasn't curing anything. On the other hand it did make you anxious for what was to come. Mom made those periwinkles into the best salad you ever tasted. Now that, as the local saying went, was some fittin', Bub ! My mouth waters still with the memory. As far as salads go only bottle fish salad could equal it.
 I have no idea what year it would have been since I last ate that delicacy. It had to be sometime in the nineteen sixties. I would guess it has been close to fifty years. Isn't that amazing ? I remember the preparation of it well as I would help. After they were thoroughly boiled and free of their shells those periwinkles needed to be ground up. For that process we clamped that old hand grinder to the kitchen table. You had to place a pan or bucket on the floor under it as the juice would run out the back and down the handle. When the pan was properly placed the juices ran into that and not on the floor. First you cut that hard plate off the end of the periwinkle. Throw it away, not good for anything I know of. Then cut the periwinkle into chunks that will fit into the grinder. I got to turn the handle while Mom fed the periwinkles into that opening. Don't stick your fingers in there too far ! Mom used the carrots and celery sticks to push the periwinkle through. It was a very coarse grind, same grind you used for potatoes when making clam chowder. And I guess everyone knows how to make clam chowder.
Once it was all ground up it was ready for mixing. The carrots and celery was already in there so all you needed to add was the mayo and some pepper. Chill the whole deal really well, put on toast and man, have you got a sandwich ! Oh yeah, forgot the lettuce and sometimes, tomato. My stomach is growling just thinking about it.
 This is something of the past and I will most likely never enjoy again. Like that bottlefish salad just a memory remains. Truth is even if I obtained some periwinkles or bottlefish it just wouldn't be the same thing. I want and remember what Mom made. I want that smell in the house and that grinder on the table. Speaking of which, I do have a grinder similar to the one Mom had, brought it at a yard sale years ago. Never used it but enjoy having it anyway. Ah, good memories and good food. Did I ever tell you about eating a long clam sandwich ? Another delicacy of the working man. Because you know the fact is a periwinkle ain't nothing but a seagoing snail, escargot. All in the same family.

that was Mom's food processor ! 


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